In recent years, Korean sunscreens have taken the beauty industry by storm, becoming a staple in skincare routines worldwide. But what makes these sunscreens so popular? As a cosmetic chemist, I’m excited to dive into the science behind why Korean sunscreens are loved by so many and how they’ve earned their place in the global beauty market.

The perception of sunscreens in different countries

Sunscreens around the world are formulated to meet the unique needs of consumers while complying with each country’s specific regulations, which shapes the perception of sunscreens in the U.S., Korea, Japan, and Europe.

• Korea: Korean sunscreens are lightweight, hydrating, and fast-absorbing. They leave the skin feeling moisturized and non-greasy, often with added skincare benefits. They also tend to be excellent for daily use.
• United States: Sunscreens tend to feel heavier with a greasy or protective layer, especially in sports or water-resistant formulas. They are perfect for outdoor activities but might not be ideal for everyday use for those with oily skin.
• Japan: Japanese sunscreens are extremely light with a silky texture and a natural, non-greasy finish. They provide excellent hydration and skin soothing effects, often with added benefits like whitening or moisturizing.
• Europe: European sunscreens offer a creamy or matte texture, focusing on skin protection and sensitivity. They leave the skin feeling calm, hydrated, and protected, and are often formulated for sensitive skin.

The main reason Korean sunscreens are so popular is their texture. They’re lightweight, feel like a moisturizer, and don’t leave a white cast, offering a more transparent finish. So, what factors contribute to these differences? Let’s take a look.

Comparing UV filters in Korea vs. U.S. Sunscreens

This table shows the sunscreen agents commonly used in the U.S. and Korea. If you check the ingredient list of the sunscreen you’re using, chances are, it’s made with one of these ingredients. So, korean sunscreens feel great because South Korea allows the use of newer UV filters that aren’t yet approved in other countries like the U.S.

Sunscreens in the U.S. tend to have a heavier and greasier texture because, as shown in the table above, the range of UV filters available is quite limited. In contrast to Korea, where water-soluble UV filters are commonly used, all chemical sunscreen agents in the U.S. are oil-soluble. This means that the higher the SPF, the more oil-soluble UV filters need to be added, resulting in an oily texture.

Use of Film Formers to Boost SPF

Additionally, while not technically UV filters, film formers are often added to boost the SPF level, as the limited UV filters in the U.S. may not be enough to achieve the desired SPF level. Film formers help enhance the sunscreen’s effectiveness by providing longer-lasting protection and preventing the sunscreen from washing off due to sweat or water. However, it can also contribute to a sticky or greasy feeling on the skin, as they form a film that may not feel fully absorbed. While they help to increase SPF protection, they can also add to the overall heavy texture of the sunscreen. Furthermore, the higher oil content can cause more noticeable white cast in emulsions, making the cream appear more opaque and thicker on the skin.

Example: Similar products sold in different countries with varying UV filters:

Dr. Jart+ – Every Sun Day Moisturizing Sun

Even though the products are similar, due to regulations, the product sold in Korea uses contains a wider range of UV filters, while the one sold in the U.S. has a more limited selection. These differences create a noticeable distinction in texture. Korean sunscreens are generally lightweight and hydrating, which makes them great for everyday use.

However, they tend to wash off more easily with water or sweat. On the other hand, U.S. sunscreens, especially those made for outdoor protection or water resistance, usually last longer in these conditions. So, depending on what you need, it’s important to choose the right sunscreen for the job.