Ingredient-Level Causes of Pilling: A Formulation Perspective
Have you ever applied your skincare or makeup, only to see tiny rolls or flakes forming on your face? This frustrating phenomenon is commonly known as pilling. It can ruin the finish of your makeup and make your entire routine feel pointless. Why do your skincare and makeup products pill on the skin?
Pilling is very common. Certain ingredients are naturally more prone to causing pilling, especially when products are layered or applied incorrectly. Below, we break down the most common ingredient types that lead to pilling and explain how you can reduce it.
Ingredients That Commonly Cause Pilling in Skincare and Makeup
Mineral (Physical) Sunscreen Filters
Sunscreens are one of the most frequent causes of pilling due to their high solid content and the use of film-forming agents to achieve higher SPF levels.
Mineral (physical) sunscreen filters—such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—are in powder form. When combined with other ingredients, these solid particles can clump together and ball up on the surface of the skin.
Tip to reduce pilling:
Consider using a chemical sunscreen or a hybrid sunscreen instead of a purely mineral one. This helps reduce the overall powder content in the formula.
- Mineral/physical filters: Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide
- Common chemical sunscreen filters used in the U.S.:
Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate
Silicone-Heavy Primers
Many people experience pilling when using silicone-based primers. If you think of products like Benefit The POREfessional Pore Minimizing Primer, you’ll immediately recognize the texture being discussed.
These primers typically contain silicone elastomers and powders. Silicone elastomers are used to fill pores and create a smooth skin surface, while powders enhance blurring, smoothing, and mattifying effects. Although water-based primers exist, silicone-based primers generally deliver a stronger pore-blurring effect.
Common silicone elastomers:
- Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Polysilicone-11
Common powders:
- Silica
- Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA)
- Polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ)
Tip to reduce pilling:
Amount control is essential. Use a very small amount (about pea-sized) and gently roll or press it onto the skin rather than rubbing aggressively.
Film-Formers
Film-forming agents are designed to create a thin, flexible layer on the skin. They are widely used to improve long-wear performance and water resistance, especially in sunscreens and foundations.
Common film-formers:
- PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone)
- Trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS)
- Pullulan
- Polyurethane polymers (e.g., Polyurethane-35)
- Acrylates Copolymer
- Polyphenylsilsesquioxane
These ingredients tend to sit on top of the skin rather than fully absorbing. When another product is layered on top—especially with friction—the polymer film can break apart and roll into visible flakes.
Tip to reduce pilling:
Apply products in thin layers and avoid excessive rubbing, both before the film fully sets and even after it has dried. Also, be cautious with water-rich products layered over polymer films. Reintroducing water can partially rehydrate or swell certain polymers, destabilizing the film.
Thick Gel Creams
One defining characteristic of thick gel creams is their low oil and wax content, which also means fewer wax-based emulsifiers. As a result, these formulas rely heavily on water-soluble polymers and thickeners to build texture.
While effective, these polymers have a major downside: when used in high amounts, they are very prone to pilling. Think about the difference between a thick gel cream and a low-viscosity serum—which one pills more easily?
Common water-soluble polymers:
- Carbomer
- Xanthan Gum
- Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
- Hydroxyethylcellulose
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
- Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Tip to reduce pilling:
Switch to a serum-type product or a light lotion if pilling occurs frequently.
Powdery Fillers and Excessive Solid Content
As discussed in the primer section, powders can significantly contribute to pilling—especially when used in high concentrations. Powders can pill on their own, but pilling becomes much worse when they interact with other ingredients.
Common powders:
- Silica
- Nylon-12
- Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA)
- Polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ)
- Tapioca Starch
- Boron Nitride
Pilling is amplified when powders are combined with:
- Waxes (beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, synthetic wax)
- Silicone elastomers (see section 2)
- Film-forming polymers (see section 3)
Pilling usually doesn’t happen because a product is poorly formulated. More often, it occurs because certain ingredients naturally prefer to stay on the skin’s surface. When these ingredients are layered incorrectly—or applied in excess—they interact and clump together.
Understanding ingredient behavior helps you choose better product combinations and apply them in a way that keeps your skin smooth and pill-free. Additionally, how you apply products matters more than you might think. Instead of aggressive rubbing, try patting or pressing products into the skin using your fingers or a beauty sponge.
Related:
Why Korean Sunscreens Are Taking Over the Beauty World: A Chemist’s Perspective
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